I am setting up a blog as a place where I can chronicle projects that are underway - or that I have completed and may be used as a jumping-off point for new projects.  Some things that will be written about in the next few months:

My home-built CNC Milling Machine

 

3D Printing using FDM and SLA technologies.

Repairs and updates to my Ms Pac-Man/Galaga video cabinet

Repairing and using an old table saw

Working with concrete - for several outdoor projects.  I am planning to build several projects including a garden bench, a birdbath pedestal, and finally a Frank Lloyd Wright Inspired "Falling Water Fountain"  

 

Let's get started: 

 

3D Printing projects using an FDM Printer.

Currently there are two FlashForge 3D printers in the workshop.  This subject area includes projects that are made ON the devices and projects that are made FOR the devices.   One printer is a Creator Pro and the other is a Finder.  Both of these printers were purchased on ebay as "broken, for parts only" and both were in good shape when received.  Here are a couple of the most important things I learned about FDM printers and printing that I wish someone had told me when I first started:

1. Level the print bed and check it often.  If you are new to FDM printing, understand that "level" does not mean "plumb and level" in the usual sense, it just means that the surface of the print bed is the same distance from the extruder nozzle across the whole surface of the bed.

 

 2. The main cause of print failures is if the bed is leveled is if the nozzle is too close or too far away - even if it is the same across the whole surface.  Too close and the prints will stick and are very hard to remove, too close and the print will not stick and create a stringy mess.

3. Use a BuildTek magnetic build sheet.  It makes removal of prints MUCH easier.  BuildTek also makes a spatula tool that is helpful.

 

3D Printing projects using an SLA Printer

 

Currently there are three SLA 3D printers in the workshop.  One is an EPAX X1 and two are Elegoo Mars printers (not the new Pro version.)  The EPAX X1 was purchased locally from a Craigslist seller.  It was in great shape and has been reliable from the start.  I have used a number of different brands of resin and have mixed resins to get mechanical properties and colors that I need for different projects.  The two Elegoo Mars printers were purchased on ebay as "broken, for parts only" and both needed some help.  The first one had a broken LCD mask and non-working motherboard.  The fix was to use EPAX X1 electronics and display components that I had purchased as spares for the #1 machine.  The second one needed a new build plate assembly.  The build plates are sold at Amazon.com, but were out-of-stock for a long time.  When stocked the price was pretty high, about $35, - but they are now down to around $25.

Here are a couple of the most important things I learned about SLA printers and printing that I wish someone had told me when I first started:

1. Set-up the machine carefully even if it is "pre-calibrated."  It is good to know what the process is and how to do it - if and when you see certain symptoms.

2. SLA Printing Resins are sensitive to temperature.  I set up a heating system for the EPAX X1 when I stated using some exotic resins and found that a consistent and slightly warmer-than-room temperature system always works better.

The heater system was made as a re-mix of a Thingiverse project that I found for the purpose.  The heater housing holds the 12V heater a little better than the original and I built a thermostat box with magnets to hold it on the steel side of the printer: Heater for SLA 3D Printer or https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4226438

OK - I will call this a "good start."